Casting is pouring resin into a some sort of cavity you intend to remove it from when cured. Resin molds can be made of different types of plastic, or from silicone. The finish you get is determined by the surface of the mold. You can use a variety of molds to create your shapes.
Here's a basic how-to video:
There are two things needed for successful doming: 1) A resin with high surface tension, designed to work on photos, papers, and other flat materials. and 2) A doming tray, which elevates and supports your cut-out shapes, creating clear edges that tell the flowing resin where to stop.
Here is a Doming How-To Video:
If you're doming larger pieces, especially with the Clear Photo Film, you should stabilize them by adding a stiff paper like cardstock to the back before adding resin. This will keep your pieces from curling up as they set. You can use a few small pieces of double-stick tape to attach them. Here's an example:
Little Windows Brilliant Resin layers beautifully and seamlessly. You can pour thin or thick layers to add embellishment, and create dimension and 3D effects. Allow your resin to set up 3-6 hours between layers, depending on the weight of what you're adding to the next layer. Example: if adding heavy metal charms to the layer, let previous layer set up for about 6 hours so the charm doesn't push down into the layer below. If adding lightweight elements, 3 hours should be fine.
Here's a basic How-To Video for Layering:
You can put almost anything you want into Brilliant Resin! Paper, plastic, fabric, metal, clay, wood, natural elements, glitters and powders, and any combination of these elements work well.
Things that contain moisture should be avoided, for example, fresh flowers and leaves. The water will react with the resin, turning the leaves and petals brown. Dried flowers and leaves work beautifully.
Then there are some things that just don't look so great - iridescent feathers will lose their shine, locks of hair may clump together and look like a claw.
Here's a basic video on embedding a bunch of different elements in resin:
Do you love working with resin? We have a program that lets you earn money by teaching - anywhere, at anytime, to anyone. With a minimum of 6 students (or 2 classes of 3 people), you can get started. We will include an outline describing how we teach classes to help you prepare.
Here are the details:
There are many ways you can add findings to your resin creations, turning them into jewelry, accessories, buttons, or decorative items like the ones shown below.
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You can drill holes into or through your resin pieces. Then you can either glue in an eye-screw, or add a jumpring or a wire through the hole. If your piece is clear, drill at an angle so the finding will hide the white drill line.
If your piece is colored, you can drill straight in and then glue in an eye-screw finding.
Once your piece is made, you can add another thin layer of resin to the back and embed a finding, to make a bail or link, or turn your pieces into all types of jewelry, buttons, and decorative pieces, like the handles below.
A drop or two of resin is the very best way to create a permanent, waterproof bond, but if you don't have any handy you can also use E6000 or another strong adhesive.
We offer two kinds of photo paper. They are both waterproof, and make a permanent bond with printer inks so you won't see any smearing or bleeding of your photos.
The first type is bright white, and can be used with both inkjet and laser printers. It's available in both 4x6" and 8-1/2 x 11" sheets.
The second type is our Clear Photo Film, and can only be printed on inkjets, as laser printers get too hot and can warp the film. It's designed for photography, so the resolution is wonderful. This type is available in 8-1/2 x 11" sheets. Plan on adding resin to both sides of this film for durability, and more of a glass-like look.