Brilliant Resin is a 2-part pure epoxy resin that's perfectly suited for making jewelry and crafts. It's the safest you'll find, and it's super versatile! This one product can cast, dome, layer, topcoat, and work in bezels!

Just blend Part A and B together and it turns from liquid to solid on its own in just 12 hours.

Each type of resin was formulated to do a particular job. For example, if you want to coat a bartop, you need a resin that flows (has low surface tension), and is super durable when cured. This product will most likely need to be mixed in a large batch to cure properly, and will discolor over time.

On the other hand, to make jewelry or a hair clip, you'll want resin that can be mixed in a very small batch, that has high surface tension for doming, and which can retain a level of flexibility even when cured, so it won't crack or shatter if bent or dropped. Low bubbling and safe to use are also things to look for.

Beware of cheap options, picking the right resin for the project you have in mind will save both time and money.

Brilliant Resin proprietary epoxy:

The safest epoxy you'll find

Developed for jewelry making and small crafts

Versatile, can create large and small pieces by casting, doming, working in bezels, and as a coating, and layers seamlessly

An amazing adhesive

Color stable without sacrificing safety

Low bubbling

Low odor with no VOC's

Not a marine pollutant

Cost effective 

Temperature in your workspace - If it's under 72F, Part A will can thicken, which makes it harder for bubbles to rise and pop. Warm your Part A before blending with Part B, following label directions. Warming Part A will make it thinner so it blends more completely, and bubbles can escape more easily.

Thorough Mixing - Over the years I've found it's best to blend your mix completely for 2-1/2 minutes, using the Mixing Wand to scrape the sides and bottom of your mixing cup. Let your mix rest in the cup for 5 minutes before using. If you are doming or working in bezels that require thinner pours, you can wait 10-15 minutes before pouring for better control.

2:1 Mix Ratio - Every molecule of Part B will bond with 2 molecules of Part A. Think of this as a dance, any unblended A or B will rise to the top if it doesn't have a partner. Problems happen when mixing is incomplete or off-ratio.

Bubble Trouble - Some bubbles are made while mixing, others come from stuff you put in your resin. Warming your Part A will greatly reduce bubbles, as will using our Special Photo Papers for Resin for any photos you embed, and sealing porous elements before embedding. After pouring allow bubbles to rise and pop on their own for 10-15 minutes, pop those, then use your Mixing Wand or a heat gun on a low setting to get rid of any stubborn ones. DO NOT use a flame as it may cause your resin to stick to your molds. Remember, using Alcohol Inks can make your project flammable.

Colorants - Make sure you're using a colorant that's safe and compatible with epoxy resin, otherwise it can affect both the cure and the look of your pieces. Here's a link to a bunch of beautiful options. Choose whichever gives you the look you're going for, or combine them!  Do not mix anything water based into your resin. 

Casting is pouring resin into a some sort of cavity you intend to remove it from when cured. Resin molds can be made of different types of plastic, or from silicone.  The finish you get is determined by the surface of the mold.  

Here's a basic how-to video:

There need two things for successful doming: 1)  A resin with high surface tension, designed to work on photos, papers, and other flat materials,  and  2) A doming tray, which elevates and supports your cut-out shapes, creating clear edges that tell the flowing resin where to stop.

Here is a Doming How-To Video:

If you're doming larger pieces, especially with the Clear Photo Film, you should stabilize them by adding a stiff paper like cardstock to the back before adding resin. This will keep your pieces from curling up as they set. You can use a few small pieces of double-stick tape to attach them.  Here's an example:

Little Windows Brilliant Resin layers beautifully and seamlessly.  You can pour thin or thick layers.  Allow your resin to set up 3-6 hours between layers, depending on the weight of what you're adding to the next layer.  Example: if adding heavy metal charms to the layer, let previous layer set up for about 6 hours so the charm doesn't push down into the layer below. If adding lightweight elements, 3 hours should be fine.

Here's a basic How-To Video for Layering:

You can put almost anything into Brilliant Resin! Paper, plastic, fabric, metal, clay, wood, natural elements, glitters and powders, and any combination of these elements.  

Things that contain moisture should be avoided, for example, fresh flowers and leaves. The water will react with the resin, turning the leaves and petals brown. Dried flowers and leaves work beautifully.

Then there are some things that just don't look so great - iridescent feathers will lose their shine, locks of hair may clump together and look like a claw.

Here's a basic video on embedding a bunch of different elements in resin:

(new projects added below :)

We get a lot of questions about working with resin in bezels (a container or frame), so this is an extensive video that covers working in closed-back bezels, open-back bezels, and also mounting resin pieces in bezels.  Lots of great info, enjoy!

Click to watch this how-to video:

Scroll down for FREE how-to video

When casting resin in molds there will be a dip in the top of your pieces.  You can trim this down using scissors. For a more rounded finish, add another layer of resin on top. Little Windows brilliant resin bonds seamlessly to itself, layer after layer, thick or thin. 

Here's the fabulous how-to video!