F.A.Q.s

Brilliant Molds

* Polished to a mirror finish so whatever colors and textures you put in will be reflected up and around the sides, creating a gorgeous "frame of light"

* Fine-tooled geometric shapes in 3 sizes + hearts

* Great depth for variety in casting

* Re-usable over and over

* No mold release needed

* Our Little Windows Cropping Software re-sizes and crops your pix to fit perfectly in each of the Small and Medium Shapes!

Try out our Medium 1" Square shape cropping software for free, and if you like it, the other Small and Medium shapes are available in our shop. When you purchase our Croppers, you'll have instant access to your new shapes.

Here are the sizes for all of our Little Windows mirror-finish molds.  Our mold sets include cropping templates, we have Cropping Software available in our shop, or you can use Photoshop or Microsoft Word to re-size your pics.  These dimensions are approximate, your cut out should fit at bottom of the mold, and molds angle out a bit, so the finished cast piece dimension depends on how thick your castings are.

LITTLE WINDOWS MOLD DIMENSIONS (approx):

Size & Shape        Photo/Paper/Fabric should be…  Cast piece will be about…

Small square           5/8”    (16mm)                                ¾”   (19mm)

Small circle              5/8”    (16mm)                                ¾”   (19mm)

Small oval               5/8 x 15/16”  (16 x 24mm)             3/4 x 1”  (19 x 25mm)

Small rectangle       9/16 x 15/16”  (15 x 23mm)          11/16 x 1”  (18 x 25mm)

 

Medium square        1”  (25mm)                                    1-1/8”  (29mm)

Medium circle           1”  (25mm)                                    1-1/8”  (29mm)

Medium oval             1” x 1-3/8” (25 x 35mm)             1-1/8 x 1-1/2” (29 x 38mm)

Medium rectangle     7/8 x 1-3/8” (21 x 35mm)           1” x 1-1/2” (25 x 38mm)

 

 

Large square        2”  (50mm)                                           + 1/8" - 1/4"

Large circle           2”  (50mm)                                           + 1/8" - 1/4"

Large oval             2” x 2-1/2” (45 x 63mm)                     + 1/8" - 1/4"

Large rectangle     1-3/4" x 2-1/2” (45 x 63mm)               + 1/8" - 1/4"

   

1" Heart                 1"W x 13/16”H   (25 x 21mm)                + 1/8" - 1/4"

1-1/2" Heart           1-1/2"W x 1-3/16”H  (35 x 30mm)      + 1/8" - 1/4"                        

2" Heart                  2"W x 1-5/8”H  (50 x 41mm)                 + 1/8" - 1/4"      

2-1/2" Heart           2-1/2”W x 2"H   (60 x 50mm)              + 1/8" - 1/4"

APPROXIMATE MOLD DEPTH:

Small - castings can be as thin as 1/8" (3mm), up to about 1/4"  (8mm)

Medium - castings can be as thin as 1/8", up to about 3/8"  (9mm)

Large and Hearts - castings can be as thin as 1/8", up to about 1/2"  (14mm)

All cast pieces can be then domed higher, see "Doming Up" How-to Videoin our Project Center.  

We offer online Cropping Software for all Small and Medium shapes, if you would like to resize your photos for any of our molds, click here for a guide on Resizing Photos Using Microsoft Word or GoogleDocs.

Sometimes in shipping our molds can be bent or curved. Simply bend it back the opposite way and it should lie flat. Another way to make sure each cavity is level with your surface is to cut them apart to use individually. A third option would be to tape the ends down to your work surface, but I prefer one of the first two options.

Yes!  But your results will vary depending on what the mold is made of, and how well it's made.  The finish on the inside of the mold determines the finish on your cast piece. 

Silicone molds work well, but come in a variety of finishes - some rough, others seem smooth but will leave your surface looking cloudy/frosted, some are shiny.  You'll have to experiment to see what you get.  You can make your own molds using silicone putty too, which is lots of fun!

You can use any mold that was made for resin casting, but be sure to follow the manufacturer's suggestions for which mold release chemicals to use.  Avoid thin plastic molds (like those made for candy-making), as resin will stick to that type of plastic and you'll have difficulty getting your cured pieces out. 

Our molds are...* Polished to a mirror finish so whatever colors and textures you put in will be reflected up and around the sides, creating a gorgeous "frame of light"* Fine-tooled geometric shapes in 3 sizes, plus beautiful hearts in 4 sizes* Great depth for variety in casting* Re-usable over and over* No mold release neededOur Little Windows Cropping Software re-sizes and crops your pix to fit perfectly in each of the Small and Medium Shapes! Try out our Medium 1" Square shape cropper for free, and if you like it, the other shapes are available in our shop. When you purchase any of our Croppers, you'll have instant access to your new shapes.

Although you never want to mix different brands or types of resin together while wet, you can use Little Windows Brilliant Resin to coat other types of resin, as long as they are cured and clean. 

Brilliant Resin is the safest epoxy you'll find, without the solvents and toxins that are common with other brands.  Each resin product on the market was designed to be used in a specific way.  Some are made to coat wood surfaces, others for casting large pieces, or making repairs.  If you want to create small, shiny things like jewelry, accessories, buttons and embellishments, that's exactly what Little Windows Brilliant Resin was developed to do.

Another benefit is that our resin does not generate a lot of heat while it's curing.  Resins that cure hot may damage your molds, and the elements you add.  If you choose to use products from other manufacturers, please make sure to follow those manufacturers' instructions, and you may need to experiment to achieve the results you're looking for.

When using molds, you should always pour your resin in before adding any items. If you put your embedments in first - especially photos or other flat pieces - you risk trapping air pockets under them as you pour in resin. This can result in rough finish, or lots of bubbles making their way to the top as the resin cures.

Brilliant Resin

Our proprietary epoxy resin formula is the best ever!  Developed for use with photos and other delicate items, it's the safest 2-part mix you'll find. I wanted something you could use at your kitchen table, so this is not a toxic product and doesn’t have the wicked smell you find with most resins.

Beyond its great performance with casting, doming, layering, coating and filling bezels and other forms, the basic advantages are:

* One single formula can Cast, Dome, Layer, Fill Bezels, and be a 1-coat Varnish!

* Blends easily, so you won’t get sticky spots

* Small mix quantity required (1 tbsp per batch), so no waste

* Not a toxic product

* No bad odor

* Very low bubbling

* Can put anything into it, even delicate items

* Works well with other mediums and favorite supplies

* 30+ minute working time, 12 hour cure

* Crystal clear and color stable

Little Windows Brilliant Resin is a pure formula without solvents or dangerous additives.  The 2:1 mix ratio is crucial, but you can double or triple your batch size as needed:

1.  Mix 2-parts of A  with 1-part of B (e.g.; 10ml + 5ml).
2.  Stir slowly for 2-1/2 minutes, until swirls disappear. For larger batches, stir for 3 minutes.   
3.  Let rest for 5 minutes, then skim off any remaining bubbles on surface.
4.  Pour slowly into mold when casting, scoop onto items when doming, or drip into bezels. Allow to cure for at least 12 hours before handling.

That depends on the project you're making.  Once mixed, and allowed to rest for 5 minutes, here are the windows you'll want to work within:

Casting with photos/other flat paper - pour the resin into your molds right after it rests, get your photos in while it's as liquidy as possibly, so bubbles have the best chance to rise and pop.

Casting with loose elements - add resin first, then add elements, your resin will be workable for up to 20-30 minutes after resting.  Even if it thickens up, as long as your elements aren't really porous (bubble-making), you still have time to add things.  

Layering in molds - allow each layer to set up for at least 3 hours before pouring next layer.

Doming - you can apply your resin right after the 5 minute rest period, or let the resin thicken for up to 25-30 minutes.

Varnishing - best applied by pouring, or spreading with mixing wand, right after rest period, or up to 20 minutes after mixing.Repairs - you can use your resin right after the rest period, or you can let it thicken 1-2 hours to use to create thicker bond.

Almost anything you like! Paper, plastic, fabric, metal, clay, wood, natural elements, glitters and powders, and any combination of these elements work well. Things that contain moisture should be avoided, for example, fresh flowers and leaves. The water will react with the resin, turning the leaves and petals brown. Dried flowers and leaves work beautifully. There are some things that don't look so great - iridescent feathers will lose their shine, locks of hair may clump together and look like a claw.

Little Windows Brilliant Resin is designed to set up in 12 hours, so you can remove it from your molds or Doming Tray after that time. For the first day your pieces will be a bit flexible, so this is the easiest time to drill and finish your creations. If you'd like, you can bend them into different shapes (watch our Bendy Rings Video for How-To's). They should not be sticky.

For most humans, properly used, our resin is not a toxic product.  In fact, it's the safest epoxy you'll find, it does not contain chemicals which produce dangerous off-gassing that can lead to chronic issues. There are no solvents, nor any nonylphenol, which is a dangerous chemical contained in Part B of most other resins you'll find.  Also, ours doesn't have a stinky or strong odor. 

Even though its safe for most humans, our labeling works to prevent the extreme possibilities of misuse - as you'll see, the directions cover mostly common sense things (don't drink it, don't get it in your eyes), as well as "avoid breathing fumes and getting on skin" because if people sniff directly from the bottles or leave it on their skin for extended periods, it can be irritating.

Whether or not it is completely non-toxic depends on how you use it/misuse it, your history with respiratory issues, and your chemical sensitivities. Another thing you'll note in our directions is "keep out of reach of children", another plea for common sense. We don't want kids or pets ingesting it, or getting it on your carpet, where it's difficult to clean up.

Click to view Little Windows Brilliant Resin SDS  

Little Windows Brilliant Resin is a proprietary, pure formula, which starts life as a solid.  If it gets colder than it likes, it can begin to crystallize and thicken, and may even solidify.  You can remedy this by heating your Part A, and the easiest way to do that is in the microwave.  Remove your cap and microwave for 10 seconds.  If not clear and thin, replace the lid and shake a bit to blend in any crystallized resin around the inner neck of your bottle, then remove lid and heat for an additional 10 seconds. 

For safety, do not heat more than 30 seconds total as it may be too hot to handle.  Allow it to come back to room temperature before mixing in with your Part B.  This can be repeated as necessary.

WARNING:  DO NOT MICROWAVE ANY OTHER BRAND OF RESIN OR TYPE OF CHEMICAL, AS THEY CAN RELEASE HARMFUL GASSES.  Little Windows Brilliant Resin formula complies with FDA standards for food safety, and does not contain any solvents.

Yes, and there are many way to color Little Windows brilliant resin, depending on the look you're going for.  Dyes, glitters or pearl powders, metal flakes or mica, oil paint, and acetate.  Since our molds are so reflective, I prefer using clear acetate in the color of my choice, cut a piece to fit snug at the bottom of my mold, then cast the piece. The molds will reflect whatever color or texture you put at the bottom of the resin, up and around the sides, making it look as if the piece is colored throughout. If I need to layer, I'll let the first layer with acetate set up, then add more resin and elements on top.

Yes!   If you're going for a domed look, I suggest adding a bit of resin in the bezel, then adding your element, pressing down to squish any bubbles out from under it. Then add a bit more resin and allow to set for 5-10 minutes so that any remaining bubbles can be dealt with before adding the final bit of resin to dome it up. If you're not sure if there are any bubbles, let the first layer set up before adding any additional resin, to ensure your results.

I love the sparkle of crystals, and you can add them to your resin projects, but if you let the facets of the crystal sink below the resin, the light will no longer be able to reflect off of them, and your crystal will look like a flat-backed mirror. So, there two ways to keep that sparkle: 1) pour a super-thin layer of resin, so the dimension of the crystal sticks out above the resin, or 2) let your resin set up for 1-2 hours, so it's firm enough to support the crystal, but still sticky enough to bond. This can be tricky and you'll have to experiment a bit to get a feel for timing. I use a pin or the tip of my mixing wand to test the set. If you miss the firm/sticky window, you can also glue your crystals on after the resin is fully set, using ZapAGap and a pin or toothpick to apply.

If your pieces are all sticky after 12 hours, that's an indication that the mix proportion was off. No matter your batch size, you should always mix Little Windows with 2-parts resin (Part A) to 1-part hardener (Part B). If only some of the pieces within your batch are sticky and others set up fine, that means the mixture was not fully blended. Be sure to mix for the full 2-1/2 minutes, scraping the sides and bottom of your mix cup, then allow the mix to rest for 5 minutes before pouring. This allows continued blending on a finer level, so the chemicals can begin to bond.

Our proprietary formula should have a good year before the Part B begins to yellow slightly. After that it's still perfectly functional and works well for projects like DichroISH, where the color of the resin doesn't affect your outcome.  For best results with photo jewelry, you want clear fresh product. Like any couple, Part A and Part B have different preferences. Here are some tips to optimize the shelf life.

TIPS:

Always wipe bottle necks clean and recap tightly soon after pouring.

Weather and sun exposure can affect shelf life.  Keep Part A at room temperature.  If Part A becomes thick or cloudy, remove cap and microwave for 5-10 seconds. Do not heat if already mixed with Part B. * DO NOT HEAT ANY OTHER RESINS OR CHEMICALS AS THEY CAN RELEASE DANGEROUS GASSES *

Part B prefers to be cool and doesn’t like humidity. Keep it cool (you can even refrigerate), keep out of sunlight.

Little Windows formulas are pure and safe, but as with many epoxies, the shelf life on your Part B is about 1 year, if stored properly.  Once it starts to change color, it will still be functional well beyond that time, but it will be better used in projects that don't require the crystal clarity, so save it for Dichro-ISH, adding glitter, fabrics, dyes, powders, or other elements, where the clarity isn't crucial.  If you're working on photo pieces, it will be best to use fresh product.  We offer replacement bottles of Part B, or new sets in different sizes. 

Here is a link to our resin sets and Part B replacements.

Although you never want to mix different brands or types of resin together while wet, you can use Little Windows Brilliant Resin to coat other types of resin, as long as they are cured and clean. 

Brilliant Resin is the safest epoxy you'll find, without the solvents and toxins that are common with other brands.  Each resin product on the market was designed to be used in a specific way.  Some are made to coat wood surfaces, others for casting large pieces, or making repairs.  If you want to create small, shiny things like jewelry, accessories, buttons and embellishments, that's exactly what Little Windows Brilliant Resin was developed to do.

Another benefit is that our resin does not generate a lot of heat while it's curing.  Resins that cure hot may damage your molds, and the elements you add.  If you choose to use products from other manufacturers, please make sure to follow those manufacturers' instructions, and you may need to experiment to achieve the results you're looking for.

When using molds, you should always pour your resin in before adding any items. If you put your embedments in first - especially photos or other flat pieces - you risk trapping air pockets under them as you pour in resin. This can result in rough finish, or lots of bubbles making their way to the top as the resin cures.

Bubble Trouble

When working with resin, bubbles are a fact of life, and probably the biggest variable, but there are many ways to avoid/reduce/eliminate them. Your Little Windows how-to guide, and our How-To Videos have tips and tricks at every step. Beyond printing on Little Windows papers, which are waterproof, here are the basics:

1)   If your bottles have been moved around or shaken, LET THEM SIT STILL for about 30 minutes to settle.

2)   If your Little Windows Part A (Resin) has gotten cold, it may have thickened up. The thicker your resin, the harder it will be for bubbles to rise, so you'll want to WARM IT UP.  You can measure out your batch into the mixing cup, then pop the cup in a microwave for 5-7 seconds, until the outside of the cup is just warm to the touch.  DO NOT TRY THIS WITH ANY OTHER RESINS OR CHEMICALS, AS THEY MAY GIVE OFF DANGEROUS FUMES.  Another option would be to tighten the lid on your Part A, put it in a zip-top bag, and soak it in hot water for 15-20 minutes.  Allow it to cool down to about room temp before mixing in your Part B.  Do not heat Part B, do not heat after you've combined A and B.

3)   Try to avoid adding bubbles while you stir. STIR SLOWLY AND GENTLY, and be sure to scrape the side and bottom of the mixing cup. Stir for the recommended amount of time. 

4)   LET YOUR MIX REST for 5-6 minutes before you pour, to allow blending to complete, and let bubbles to rise and pop. If there are any bubbles clinging to the top or sides of your mixing cup, scoop them out before you pour.

5)   POUR RESIN SLOWLY into your mold, and slide in your photos into the resin, face-up. Wait a few seconds to let the photo settle down into the resin, then use your mixing wand to slowly push the photo to the bottom. Cover up your mold and wait the recommended amount of time so the bubbles have a chance to rise up and pop on their own.

6)   After 10 minutes, if you see any stubborn bubbles clinging to your photos, use your mixing wand to gently scooch them off and up into the mixture toward an edge, so they have a chance to rise up and pop on their own.  Give them a few minutes then scoop any remaining bubbles up and out of your mold.

7)    Another way to avoid bubbling is to pour in thinner layers, which also allows you to collage and create 3-D effects!

8)   Watch out for pigment inks in your printer, they may cause tiny bubbles to form and cling to the surface of the photo.

Sometimes you'll scoop out all bubbles, then come back a while later and see a bunch more in one spot on your piece, usually on one edge or corner.  That means there was a larger air bubble trapped behind your paper, and as the resin starts to set up, that bubble makes its way up and around the edge of the paper in a stream of smaller bubbles, almost like a fountain. 

To prevent this from happening, carefully lift up your mold and check below your paper to see if there is a bubble hiding there (keep your mold level so the resin doesn't flow out).  If you see a bubble, you can either press the paper down against the bottom, forcing the bubble up all at once, or you can lift up the paper, allowing bubble-free resin to flow beneath it, then gently push the paper back down.  Allow bubbles to rise and pop.

Adding Findings

There are many ways you can add findings to your resin creations, turning them into jewelry, accessories, buttons, or decorative items like the ones shown below. 

SCROLL DOWN FOR HOW-TO VIDEOS

Drill a hole:

You can drill holes into or through your resin pieces.  Then you can either glue in an eye-screw, or add a jumpring or a wire through the hole.  If your piece is clear, drill at an angle so the finding will hide the white drill line.

If your piece is colored, you can drill straight in and then glue in an eye-screw finding.

Embed findings in resin:

Once your piece is made, you can add another thin layer of resin to the back and embed a finding, to make a bail or link, or turn your pieces into all types of jewelry, buttons, and decorative pieces, like the handles below. 

Glue on flat-back bails:

A drop or two of resin is the very best way to create a permanent, waterproof bond, but if you don't have any handy you can also use E6000 or another strong adhesive.

Wire wrap your pieces:

 

Finish your resin creations using headpins and jumprings as findings:

 

 

 

In this how-to video, you can fast-forward to 11:38 for a focus on findings:

 

 

And here's a demo of clean and easy drilling with our Spring Drill:

Clean-Up

Tools - wipe cups and wands clean with dry paper towel.

Molds - allow resin to dry, then pick off with fingernail - no need to wash Little Windows molds, that will only leave a residue.

On hard surfaces - wipe with dry paper towel, remove residue with cleaner like Simple Green or acetone.

On soft surfaces (fabric, carpet, hair, etc) - this is the hardest, you will want to wash with dish soap before it cures, until no longer sticky.

On skin - wipe with dry paper towel, then wash with dish soap until no longer sticky.

In eyes - wash with cool water for a minimum of 15 minutes, see a doctor if swollen.

Yes!   After you've finished pouring your projects, use dry paper towels to wipe clean your cup and wand.  If the resin has dried in your cup, you can roll the cup in your palms to loosen the dried bits, then pick them out with a fingernail.

First, wipe off as much as you can using dry paper towels, then wash well with dish-soap until you're no longer sticky. Baby oil works well, as do orange-based cleaners. Little Windows resin is not a toxic product, but it can cause irritation if you have sensitive skin. Get medical attention if you see swelling. If you get it in your eyes, flush with water for 15 minutes and get medical attention. Keep eye lids apart. If someone drinks it by mistake, give them large quantities of water and get medical attention.

For most humans, properly used, our resin is not a toxic product.  In fact, it's the safest epoxy you'll find, it does not contain chemicals which produce dangerous off-gassing that can lead to chronic issues. There are no solvents, nor any nonylphenol, which is a dangerous chemical contained in Part B of most other resins you'll find.  Also, ours doesn't have a stinky or strong odor. 

Even though its safe for most humans, our labeling works to prevent the extreme possibilities of misuse - as you'll see, the directions cover mostly common sense things (don't drink it, don't get it in your eyes), as well as "avoid breathing fumes and getting on skin" because if people sniff directly from the bottles or leave it on their skin for extended periods, it can be irritating.

Whether or not it is completely non-toxic depends on how you use it/misuse it, your history with respiratory issues, and your chemical sensitivities. Another thing you'll note in our directions is "keep out of reach of children", another plea for common sense. We don't want kids or pets ingesting it, or getting it on your carpet, where it's difficult to clean up.

Click to view Little Windows Brilliant Resin SDS  

Cropping My Photos

The easiest way is to use our cropping software developed specifically for making Little Windows!  It is a web application, so you will access it here on our website. You will be working online without downloading any software to your computer, the only thing you'll save to your desktop is your finished, re-sized sheet of cropped images, which will be saved to your desktop so you can print it at home. The Medium 1" Square Cropper Shape is available for you to try for FREE. 

If you like how it works, we offer Croppers for all Small and Medium Mold shapes. Below are the dimensions for all croppers we offer.

You can also use Photoshop or another photo editing program if you prefer, and then use the Little Windows Photo Cropping Templates that come in the Starter Kit and Mold Sets (also available for $2 in our shop).

If you're not comfortable cropping online, or using Photoshop, click here for a How-To guide for resizing your pictures using Microsoft Word or GoogleDocs.  This will also work if you need to resize your images to fit our Large Sized Molds or Hearts Molds.  You'll then use the templates that come with your molds to trace around and cut out your shapes.

Size & Shape        Photo should print…              Cast piece will be about…

 

Small square           5/8”    (16mm)                                ¾”   (19mm)

Small circle              5/8”    (16mm)                                ¾”   (19mm)

Small oval               5/8 x 15/16”  (16 x 24mm)             3/4 x 1”  (19 x 25mm)

Small rectangle       9/16 x 7/8”  (15 x 23mm)              11/16 x 1”  (18 x 25mm)

 

Medium square        1”  (25mm)                                    1-1/8”  (29mm)

Medium circle           1”  (25mm)                                    1-1/8”  (29mm)

Medium oval             1” x 1-3/8” (25 x 35mm)             1-1/8 x 1-1/2” (29 x 38mm)

Medium rectangle     7/8 x 1-3/8” (21 x 35mm)           1” x 1-1/2” (25 x 38mm)

 

We do not offer online Cropping Software for our Large or Hearts molds, but here are the size targets to be used with the cropping templates which come in each mold set:

Large square        2”  (50mm)                                      + 1/8" - 1/4"

Large circle           2”  (50mm)                                      + 1/8" - 1/4"

Large oval             2” x 2-1/2” (45 x 63mm)                  + 1/8" - 1/4"

Large rectangle     1-3/4" x 2-1/2” (45 x 63mm)            + 1/8" - 1/4"

 

1" Heart                 1"W x 13/16”H   (25 x 21mm)           + 1/8" - 1/4"

1-1/2" Heart           1-1/2"W x 1-3/16”H  (35 x 30mm)    + 1/8" - 1/4"                        

2" Heart                  2"W x 1-5/8”H  (50 x 41mm)            + 1/8" - 1/4"      

2-1/2" Heart           2-1/2”W x 2"H   (60 x 50mm)            + 1/8" - 1/4"

When you purchase the Little Windows Photo Cropping Software, all Small and Medium Shapes will be added to your account as soon as your payment comes through, and will be available to use immediately. You may need to refresh your browser, or clear cache to connect with the latest updates at little-windows.com

If your pictures are not printing out at the right size, check your Print Page Setup, to be sure you've selected 4 x 6" Borderless printing. If your printer does not allow for this option, then find the "scale" variable, and set the document to print at 34%.

We offer custom paper punches to fit some of our molds, which can also be used for Doming, or for any craft/scrapbooking project, with or without resin:

We have punches that fit all of our Medium Mold Shapes and Small Mold Shapes.  Our 1" Rounded Square Punch is the only one on the market with rounded corners, so you can use it for lots of other things as well, including Photo Cube gifts. 

We also have heart-shaped punches in 1", 1-1/2", 2" and 2-1/2" sizes (side to side), that fit our Heart Shaped Molds.  Again, these are excellent for paper crafting as well.

See the Mold Sizes FAQ for a complete list of sizing.

Drilling Resin

There are many ways you can add findings to your resin creations, turning them into jewelry, accessories, buttons, or decorative items like the ones shown below. 

SCROLL DOWN FOR HOW-TO VIDEOS

Drill a hole:

You can drill holes into or through your resin pieces.  Then you can either glue in an eye-screw, or add a jumpring or a wire through the hole.  If your piece is clear, drill at an angle so the finding will hide the white drill line.

If your piece is colored, you can drill straight in and then glue in an eye-screw finding.

Embed findings in resin:

Once your piece is made, you can add another thin layer of resin to the back and embed a finding, to make a bail or link, or turn your pieces into all types of jewelry, buttons, and decorative pieces, like the handles below. 

Glue on flat-back bails:

A drop or two of resin is the very best way to create a permanent, waterproof bond, but if you don't have any handy you can also use E6000 or another strong adhesive.

Wire wrap your pieces:

 

Finish your resin creations using headpins and jumprings as findings:

 

 

 

In this how-to video, you can fast-forward to 11:38 for a focus on findings:

 

 

And here's a demo of clean and easy drilling with our Spring Drill:

 

Our Little Windows Starter Kit includes a Spring Drill which is the perfect tool for making small holes in your resin (or wood). The kit comes with 1 drill bit which is 1.2mm.  The Spring Drill is also available individually, and includes 3 drill bits (1mm, 1.2mm, 1.5mm).  

This drill is easy to use and will not cause hand fatigue.  It works by moving the handle up and down, which turns the drill bit.

SPRING DRILL DEMO:

 

If you have any trouble fitting the drill bits into the collets, watch this video:

 

The original Little Windows Kit comes with a mini-hand drill which works by pushing down on the end and twisting it through your resin. 

 

If you plan on making more than a few, you can also use a power drill like the Creative Power Drill, or a Dremel tool with a #60 or 61 drill bit.

Photos & Paper

We offer two kinds of photo paper.  They are both waterproof, and make a permanent bond with printer inks so you won't see any smearing or bleeding of your photos. 

The first type is bright white, and can be used with both inkjet and laser printers.  It's available in both 4x6" and 8-1/2 x 11" sheets. 

The second type is our Clear Photo Film, and can only be printed on inkjets, as laser printers get too hot and can warp the film. It's designed for photography, so the resolution is wonderful.  This type is available in 8-1/2 x 11" sheets.  Plan on adding resin to both sides of this film for durability, and more of a glass-like look.

Normal photo paper is often porous and can absorb the resin, making your image blotchy or discolored. Unless you'd like to do some experimenting, it's best to use the Little Windows Special Photo Paper, which is waterproof and forms a permanent bond with your printer inks, so that when you place it in your liquid resin, it won't bleed or run.

If you have any other types of paper or printed photos you'd like to use, you can add a waterproofing coating like Mod Podge to both sides and edges.  Allow to dry completely before applying resin.

Our bright white photo paper may be thicker thank your printer is used to, so you may need to either help push it through gently with your hand, or use the flat feeder (if your printer has one).   If it still won't feed, try using your fingers to slightly bend the first 1/4 inch of the sheet up, and cut off the top left corner.  That should help feed heavy papers through.

To feed the smaller 4 x 6" paper, use the arm for envelope feeds, pushing it over to the correct width, and the paper should feed through.  If you have an older printer, you may need to tape the smaller paper onto a sheet of 8-1/2 x 11" regular printing paper.  Line up the small sheet in the top left corner of the big sheet, and put a piece of scotch tape only along the top edge.  This can trick your printer into thinking you're sending through a sheet size it prefers.

Please check the online user guide provided by the manufacturer who made your printer for more details.

Printing

As mentioned before, our bright white photo paper may be thicker than your printer is used to, so you may need to either help push it through gently with your hand, or use the flat feeder (if your printer has one).  

If it still won't feed, try using your fingers to slightly bend the first 1/4 inch of the sheet up, and cut off the top left corner.  That should help feed heavy papers through.

Click the link below for a how-to guide for working with printers that don't seem to want to accept our papers.

Guide for Feeding Finicky Printers

 

If that doesn't work, try taping a piece of clear tape along the top edge, folding it over to the back so it sticks to itself.  This gives the printer rollers a chance to grab onto the sheet a bit more easily, and can trick it into thinking it's thinner paper.

Sometimes it's tricky to find the right settings to print the 4x6" files you've created using our Little Windows Photo Croppers.  Our amazing customer Barbara sent us this guide to help you find what you need:

HP Photosmart Borderless Settings Guide

Well, you have a few options:

- Crop your photos online, then email your file to us for pro printing. It's just $2.50 per 4 x 6" printed sheet, and will be shipped out to you within 2 days after we receive your file/s.

- Have a friend with a good printer? Email your files to them to print, or go visit the and crop online at their house, printing once you're done.  You can use the Little Windows Photo Cropper wherever you have internet access, and the use of either Firefox or Internet Explorer as your browser.

- Take your files to a printing place, but make sure they either scale them to fit a "Borderless 4x6" sheet, or that they print your files at 34%, onto Little Windows Special Photo Paper. Each Medium Square cropped photo (for example) should measure 1 inch.

If your print quality isn't as good as you'd like, check that the images you're using are high-resolution (300dpi), then be sure you've selected the highest quality print setting your printer will allow. Also, be sure you've told the printer you're using high-quality glossy photo paper. If you're still not happy with the results you may want to try our pro-printing service, available in our shop. You just email your cropped LittleWindows.png file to us, and we will print them for you and mail them back within 48 hours. Depending on where you live, you should receive your printed photos within 1 week.  Faster shipping is available.

SDS (safety data)

For most humans, properly used, our resin is not a toxic product.  In fact, it's the safest epoxy you'll find, it does not contain chemicals which produce dangerous off-gassing that can lead to chronic issues. There are no solvents, nor any nonylphenol, which is a dangerous chemical contained in Part B of most other resins you'll find.  Also, ours doesn't have a stinky or strong odor. 

Even though its safe for most humans, our labeling works to prevent the extreme possibilities of misuse - as you'll see, the directions cover mostly common sense things (don't drink it, don't get it in your eyes), as well as "avoid breathing fumes and getting on skin" because if people sniff directly from the bottles or leave it on their skin for extended periods, it can be irritating.

Whether or not it is completely non-toxic depends on how you use it/misuse it, your history with respiratory issues, and your chemical sensitivities. Another thing you'll note in our directions is "keep out of reach of children", another plea for common sense. We don't want kids or pets ingesting it, or getting it on your carpet, where it's difficult to clean up.

Click to view Little Windows Brilliant Resin SDS  

Shipping

We ship all orders via USPS, with First Class and Priority Mail.  Shipping quotes are based on your location, and on the weight of your package:

Within the United States:

- Packages under 13oz. can ship either First Class or Priority Mail.

- Packages over 13oz. must ship via Priority Mail.

Outside the US:

- Packages under 4lbs. can ship via First Class International or Priority International.

- Packages 4 pounds plus must ship via Priority Mail International.

Once you've selected the products you want, and enter your shipping address, a shipping quote will be shown for your approval prior to payment.  Our goal is to get your goodies on their way to you asap.  We plan to have them packed and shipped within 24 hours of order receipt (business days).  Keep in mind that certain payment methods (e.g.; e-check), can take several days for your order to clear. 

US - First Class - 4-10 days

US - Priority - 2-3 days

Outside US - First Class - 2-3 weeks (depending on your customs clearance and local delivery service)

Outside US - Priority - 7-10 business days (depending on your customs clearance and local delivery service)

Holidays and extreme weather may impact your shipping time.

Do you love working with resin?   We have a program that lets you earn money by teaching - anywhere, at anytime, to anyone.  With a minimum of 6 students (or 2 classes of 3 people), you can get started.  We will include an outline describing how we teach classes to help you prepare.

Here are the details:

 

Learning Resin Techniques

Yes! 

Which glue should I use?

The best choice will be based on the project you're making.  Sometimes it's easier to use a dry adhesive, like our super-strong peel and stick adhesive sheets.  You can cut them to the shape you need, then just peel and stick.  This is great for adhering your resin pieces onto solid surfaces such as cell phones, scrapbooks, binders, and for sticking two domed pieces back-to-back, for double-sided creations.  Free technique videos in our Project Center.

Other times you need the flexibility of a liquid adhesive, in which case your Brilliant Resin is the best bet.  It'll bond completely with cured resin pieces, and stick on whatever you want, from metal to plastic findings.  But that only uses a few drops, so if you're not mixing up a batch, you can also use:

 

ZapAGap (available in our shop)

E6000 (stinky, but strong)

Hot Glue (you'll need to experiment to see which ones peel off and which have a strong bond)

The strongest bond would come from using a drop or two of resin.  You can also place the finding into the resin as it sets up.  If you don't want it to sink down into your resin, you can wait for about 1 hour for it to thicken up first, testing the thickness with your mixing wand or a pin.

If you're not mixing up a second batch of resin, you can use a strong adhesive such as E6000 (although it's stinky), or ZapAGap, a great super-glue.

Discounts?

We do not offer wholesale but we do have discounts for creative people who offer classes.  If you're interested please email fran@little-windows.com, let us know who you are and what you'd like to do, and we'll get you the info you need. 

If you're thinking of teaching a beginner/intermediate class, you may be interested in this program.

We do offer discounts on certain items, in either multiples or larger put-ups of products for designers.  Please email fran@little-windows.com for details. 

If you're a creative person who just wants a good deal, make sure to sign up for our e-newsletter for promotional offers, new product announcements, and to see what our other customers have been making with their Little Windows Brilliant Resin and supplies.

Education

On occasion we do teach classes in the Los Angeles area, but we are hoping that our library of free tutorials, project ideas and inspiration will guide you as you begin and grow in your resin crafting.  

Be sure you're signed up for this monthly-ish e-newlsetter, we will show off our latest creations, new techniques, share what our other creative customers have been making, and offering special promotions throughout the year so you can stock up!

You'll find us on YouTube, Pinterest, Facebook, and Instagram, but the one-stop-shop for creative content is our Project Ideas / How To's section.